Backyard and Beyond

Starting out from Brooklyn, an amateur naturalist explores our world.

As John Burroughs said, “The place to observe nature is where you are.”

Hudson Highlands

About two hours from my door via the MTA and MetroNorth, the Hudson Highlands loom above the Hudson. A wedge of Precambrian gneiss running NE-SW across the river, this billion year old rock makes for dramatic scenery and excellent hiking.In a throwback to the whistle stop, the Hudson Line makes weekend morning stops at Breakneck, just north of Cold Springs. You exit the rear door of the last car, onto a little platform of wooden steps. Everybody, and there were about thirty on the early train, headed south along the parallel road for the trail-head to challenge the well-named Breakneck Ridge. But, hell, I wait in enough lines here in the city: I crossed the road to the Wilkinson Memorial Trail, and thus had the woods to myself for more than an hour. The scurry of squirrels across leaves, the squeaky hinge of nuthatches and the ratt-a-tapping of woodpeckers, the rush of descending water. The morning was completely overcast to start, dampening the glory of the Palisades on the way up, but the sun was out by eleven, which meant that the thermals were rising and with them the turkey vultures. Now thick with broadleaf woodlands — oaks, maples, hickories, tuliptrees, sassafras, dogwoods, witch hazel — turning mellow with fall, the Highlands are like much of the northeast’s forest: they are actually quite young. You will search long for a tree bole that challenges more than one person’s out-stretched, circling arms. For this area has been mined, quarried, and lumbered to within an inch of its life. It’s only in the last century that it’s been left alone to recover. Sometimes even less: the Cornish Trail, a carriage road that becomes paved as you descend it, passes the Ozymandian rough stone estate of the former chairman of the National Lead Co., who lived there in the ’20s. The place burned in 1956.Precambrian gneiss and thick hairy vines of poison ivy may keep away vandals, if they have any idea what it is:
A ray of sunshine and a log at the bridge over Breakneck Brook, down in the valley between Breakneck Ridge and Mt. Taurus (a.k.a. Bull Hill), put me in a Basho mood. Another hiker sat nearby ~

Can’t share my haiku
With woman wearing headphones:
Different drummer

At my feet there was this dead beetle:Unexpectedly, a sluggish bullfrog gets in its last licks before heading down in the muck to winter the winter away:There are two afternoon pick-ups at the MetroNorth “Breakneck Station,” but I wandered down into Cold Springs for the return train.

4 responses to “Hudson Highlands”

  1. Beautiful – reminds me of childhood walks in NY & Connecticut – crumbling stone walls running through woods where once was some farmer’s fields. Lovely pictures, lovely post. And good for you for getting up & out of the city for such a walk.

    1. When the alarm went off, I almost retreated back under the covers. I’m glad it was dark when I left the house, because if I’d seen how overcast it was, I might never have left Brooklyn

  2. Nice hike. Thanks for taking us along.

  3. Although my native Finger Lakes are wonderful, I have often thought that if I hit the lottery, figuratively speaking, as I never play it, I would live in the Hudson Highlands and have an apartment in the city.

    But actually, I suppose I would miss my little old blue farmhouse in Ohio–my own woods, meadow, gardens–and deer herd (NOT).

    Your blog brings me back to my flower-starved years in the city, Schenectady, where I lived during elementary school. I looked for nature everywhere–vacant lots, cracks in sidewalks, wonderful glimpses of Italian gardens behind the houses, wild blueberries in Steinmetz Park woods, dragonflies in an old cellar hole. Sometimes I think I am too rich in natural things. Thanks for bringing back my hunger years.

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